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Thursday, 28 August 2008

LEGIAN BEACH

Is a beach where locals, expatriates and tourist mingle, bargain with the best, play paddle ball and football, indulge in a massage and manicure, catch up on reading, meditate, exercise, you name it. The two camps are easily recognized; the workers have as many clothes on as possible and the "bules" (Westerners) wear as little as possible. Be prepared for scantily clad Brazilians, G- stringed Italians, Australian in designer surf gear, and pretty Indonesian girls in multi-platform sandals - it is the united nations of beaches. Sunset is peak time at Sunset Legian.

Kuta beach remains the most popular strip and extends all the way up to Candu and down towards the airport in Tuban. Kuta proper remains the whitest stretch of sand and is a big draw for those who want to test their surfing skills with both a beach break and a reef break further out. Its popularity continues to grow and for all ages, it is a wonderful place to lay your sarong, frolic in the waves and soak up the warm sun.

Besakih temple Bali

Besakih temple is the most important temple in Bali. Known as the Mother Temple, Besakih sits on the western slop of Gunung Agung, the most holy place for Balinese Hindus. Getting to Besakih from Kuta is quite easy. Simply head east towards Sanur, connections with the Kusamba Bypass at Tohpati. Follow the fast track coastal route until you see signs for Klungkung, at which point you head north looking out for sign for Besakih. You should be at Besakih in around 2 hours from Kuta. The temple can be a bit of a tourist trap, especially during the day. In the evening it quietens down and may be a better time to visit. Besakih does have a system of temple guides, which can be annoying for some people.

When I visited Besakih in 2008 I went with my wife and was never approached by touts. I was also allowed to join my Balinese friends in visiting temples and receive blessings from the pemangku (temple priest). Inviting a Balinese friend to go with you or hiring a driver would be a very good idea if visiting Besakih temple in the daytime.

Besakih is not just one temple, but a large complex of temples extending up the mountain, over a distance of 3km. The offical opening hours are daily 8am-5pm. Entrance is 7,500rp, parking 1,000rp, camera use is 1,000rp and video use is 2,500rp. In respect to the culture wear a sarong and sash, available outside from the many vendors.

Besakih temple’s history dates back to megalithic times, with the most ancient section Pura Batu Madeg (temple of the Standing Stone) built around a central rock. Balinese people believe the founder of Besakih to be Sri Markandeya, a Javanese priest who was in Bali around the 10th Century AD.

Besakih was already very important to the Balinese by the time the Javanese Majapahits conquered Bali is 1343. After that time the temple became the central temple of the Gelgel and Klungkung courts.

Exploring the Besakih temple complex means a lot of walking and stair climbing. One strategy is to visit the largest temple, Pura Penataran Agung first, then take your time meandering the other points of interest. If you feel like checking out the more remote parts of the temple, head to Pura Pengubengan, which is 2km through the north at the northern end of the temple.

A little reading can make your visit of temple layout all the more enjoyable. According to Balinese Hinduism, the Trimurti or ‘3 shapes‘ of the Supreme Deity are represented in 3 separate temples. Pura Kiduling Kretek (Temple South of the Bridge) represents Brahma the creator, Pura Batu Madeg (Temple of the Standing Stone) represents Wisnu the protector and Pura Penataran Agung, the largest temple represents Siwa the destroyer.

The Panca Dewata (5 gods of the 4 directions and center) are represented by 5 smaller temples. These are Pura Penaturan Agung (center), Pura Ulun Kulkul (west), Pura Gelap (east), Pura Batu Medeg (north) and Pura Kiduling Kretek (south).

Warungs and drinks sellers line the street outside Besakih.

Most tourists that come to Bali, more often than not, have a temple or two on their itinerary. There are the regular heavily-visited temples such as Pura Besakih, Pura Luhur Ulu Watu and the garden temple of Pura Taman Ayun. There are also several other beautiful and less visited temples on the island that are just as fascinating. The garden temples, in my opinion, are by far the greatest of all to visit. One such garden temple on the outskirts north of the town of Bangli in East Bali is Pura Kehen. When you first visit this grandeur structure it is almost mind-boggling because the temple rises steeply from the edge of the road at the foot of a hill and quite imposing with the multitude of steps leading up to the candi bentar or split gateway that is the entrance. Actually there are two entrances but visitors can only use one of them. Founded in the 11th Century by Sri Brahma Kemuti Ketu, Pura Kehen is the second largest temple on Bali and the most sacred in the region.

There are three parts to this magnificent temple and seem to be stacked one on top of another with stairways leading to each section. The old part of the temple is based at the first level and it is here where you will see the historical lontar and prastasis. There is a striking closed gateway called pamedal agung and you will see the carved demons of kala-makara whose job is to scare away malevolent spirits from entering the sacred grounds. The first shady courtyard has an old waringan tree and it is here you will see the kuklul drum tower perched it its boughs. What amazed me was that around the walls of the courtyard are Chinese porcelain plates, albeit chipped, inserted in them. The jeroan, or inner sanctuary, has a shrine with 11 tapering meru roofs. These are the resting places for the mountain Gods. The padmasana (the three-throned shrine to the Hindu trinity) is situated to the right and is a perfect example of Balinese stone carving. In fact, every where you look there are magnificent stone carvings that personify a Balinese temple.

The highest part of the temple affords spectacular views over the countryside below and it is here that you can see the grandeur of the whole temple structure. It is also the most peaceful. Pura Kehen is adorned with colourful gardens of hibiscus and lantana amongst a few. The best time to visit Pura Kehen. I have found is late afternoon when the tourist buses have gone and this ay you can relax and enjoy the temple without being hassled by tourists clambering everywhere. Late afternoon is the best time for photography as the light is perfect. There is a small entrance fee, and if you are thirsty then there are small warungs opposite the temple.

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Pretty much over the decades I have seen and explored Bali to the max. On my travels there are those places that have re-visited and been disappointed mainly because of the ‘overkill’, due to the mass tourism that exists now on the island, where tourists and travellers alike are being charged ridiculous prices for entry fees and then getting hassled non-stop by persistent hawkers. And, there are those beautiful, quiet places that were gems to find and these were generally off the so-called tourist track and now, as I am led to believe, are also being included on tour itineraries. So, I decided to put together a few gems that maybe some of you have already seen, but if you haven’t, then it will give you something to look forward to on your next sojourn.

On the outskirts of Blahbatuh in Central Bali there is a beautiful, secluded Chinese temple. I can guarantee that you have crossed the steel-girder bridge as you enter town plenty of times, but, if you had have stopped on the left-hand side after you crossed the bridge then you would have noticed a stone stairway leading down to the river below. Here you will find Vihara Amurya Bhumi. This is a stunning and large temple literally sitting at the base of a cliff and on the cliff walls, unique carved Bhuddas. Entrance is free but a donation would be appropriate.

A half hour drive north of Pura Ulu Danau Bratan on the road to Singaraja, there is a sharp turn-off to the left. You can’t miss it because there are heaps of monkeys on the road where people stop to feed them. Take the turning to the left and follow the road for about five miles and you will see on your left-hand side the twin lakes of Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan. There are plenty of places to stop and take photos here and the scenery is spellbinding.

Just nice to have a glass of coffee and hot fried banana at the middle road at hill road between Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan.Hmmm..

Most of you will have driven along the Jalan Ngurah Rai bypass on your way to Sanur and you would have passed all the mangroves on your right-hand side. These mangroves are vital to the ecosystem of the area and you can actually walk along wooden walkways through the entire mangrove swamps to the ocean. There are two walkways and so, enter in one and walk back out the other. The people at the research centre located at the entrance are a boon of information.

What I would consider to be one of the most peaceful and beautiful temples on the island, Pura Luhur Batukau is located at the base of Gunung Batukau. It is the quietness of the area that I find appealing and the cool air is refreshing. Walking around this temple at the base of the mountain is surreal as is the reflective gardens.

Without a doubt the most stunning Chinese place of worship on the island of Bali is the monastery of Brama Vihara Arama. Located not far from Singaraja just east past Banjar you will find the Buddhist monastery. The Brahma Arama Vihara is a spectacular place and is the most important Buddhist monastery in Bali. Complete with golden Buddha statues and a pristine natural setting, the most stunning part of this monastery is the miniature replica of Borobudur on the top level.

The east coast of Bali is in my opinion the most panoramic part of the island. Amed and surrounding areas are great places to stay and wile the days away far from the madding crowds of the Kuta tourist strip. Losmens and good hotels are clean and affordable, the diving and snorkeling is excellent and the locals, probably the friendliest that I have encountered.

In the central-west of Bali you will find one of the most surprising and eloquent surprises, Bunut Bolong. The road actually goes through a tree. Of course there is a hole carved in it and it is a sacred place to the Balinese. Head west to Negara on the coast road and turn off at the town of Pekutatan. The long winding road up into the cool hills will see you passing by coffee and clove plantations and just as you turn the next bend, voila, there it is.